All Chef Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.
A Shocking Accolade
This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.
“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Charm of Modesty
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
A Signature Creation: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.
Rising Above the Titans
Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.
The Ethos of Heart
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
A Story of Perseverance
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
An Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.